Eufycam teardown

That must be a mistake. Lot and lot of people make mistake in mAh calculations.
Anker must have made mistake too. Thats why its best to use Wh.
13400 mAh is not possible unless all 4 cells are in parallel (4p) but then the voltage will be 3.7 V (which is not the case here)
9V 2A is 18watt charge. It should take this battery bank (48.24 Wh) about 3h to charge taking into account transfer losses.

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This is awesome, good work! I think some Directional Yagis are in order… :slight_smile:

I didn’t see anyone answer your question about the low frequency range, its 868MHz - 915MHz

You should create a manual.
"How to add these antennas".
This would be a seller.

Ok thanks for your help and enlightenment @kumar.sachin :+1:

But i am still curious what @AnkerOfficial will say about this. :smile:

Eufy showed 13,400 for both eufycam & eufycamE

Be curios to see what is eufycamE?

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True! This was was i was looking for yesterday. Thanks for posting it. :+1:

So it is definitely a lie and i’m curious how long it will take until eufy finally will make an official statement about this!

If it really would be a 13.400 mAh as promised and announced, the eufy cam would really last much longer than currently.

I guess 99,9% the same battery (type) from the original eufy cam is also build into the eufy cam E .
Probably just the form factor is different to fit in the different camcase.

But i already see @Haloweenhamster loosing his warranty also for his eufy cam E while disassembling it already to see what battery is included … :joy: I wouldn’t wonder if we would see the first pictures in a few minutes :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Very interesting.

I wouldn’t attempt dismantling something like that.

Every time I’ve tried it goes wrong somehow, I’m either left with leftovers or it just doesn’t work.

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Not got any E cams

If you changed the batteries to 1s4p to get the 13,400mAh you may find it lasts less time (the cam would also need modification to work with half the voltage possibly making it less efficient)

Theoretically 1s4p, 2s2p, 4s1p will give the same power, I personally try to use batteries in series where possible as you can have parallel batteries discharging into eachother

Like @kumar.sachin said it’s the Wh rating your interested in not mAh

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Battery configuration is dependent on device voltage, current and power ratings. On any electronic circuit there are elements that will only run at certain voltages.
In parallel the battery will not discharge into each other. There are provisions in BMS (battery management system) to prevent balancing issues.
It’s a combination of voltage and power that is going to determine the configuration. Power alone will dictate how long you can operate on single charge.
In the case on hand, this camera needs 7.2V to operate. If the power is increased to 96Wh (by using 2x the number of cells) from current 48Wh, it will work for twice the time.

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Saying this, i have seen this also. But why eufy tells then to charge the Battery either with 5V or 9V?
When it comes to solar panels to charge the cam, they only talked about 5V (but 6V wouldn’t harm the battery also, see official post from 5 months ago following)


The links from this screenshot are:

and:


So if i understand it correctly … every charging (no matter if wall plug or solar panel) between 5V and 9V should be ok and do not harm the cam battery, but the battery itself is operating at 7.2V?!

The charger connects to
Battery management
southchip sc8801qder

The batteries require a constant current then constant voltage charger, to make it easier for customers they use a device like this & have usb input

The battery management should also protect against over discharge & over current as well

Wow, this is great to see…
what an amazing tear down and details, good work @Haloweenhamster Thanks for sharing :+1:
Also, thanks @kumar.sachin and @Haloweenhamster for battery 101

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This is correct…
Since by spec it is ok to charge with 5V or 9V. I do not see an issue with 6V.
In any device that has a rechargeable battery inside there is a DC-DC converter prior to battery that will automatically step up or down the voltage to correct voltage needed by the battery.

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Excellent! Thanks @kumar.sachin

So as “Doctor Battery” is currently around, another question.
But i will “outsource” the question to a better fitting thread, to not put too much “off topic” content into this thread. Please check and answer my question here, if you want to: +++ YAMYAM's detailed eufy cam SOLAR PANEL TEST & REVIEW +++ (direct link to the question)

Thanks :heavy_heart_exclamation:

Thanks for the tear down :+1:

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What’s people’s thoughts on horny?

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Well my camera failed to charge the other day, opened it up & although I sealed the camera & the sma, the internal of the sma wasn’t sealed so water tracked down the cable (woops)

Tried cleaning it up but still didn’t charge, just gives off a high pitched whine

I removed the battery, no voltage from p+ to p- but there is 0.3v from scl & sda to p+ & p-, cells are 2.9v

Going to manually change to storage charge then try back in the camera

Battery details for people though

LG F1L
Battery Size : ⌀18.30mm x 64.90mm
Nominal Voltage : 3.63V
Nominal Capacity : 3350mAh
Min . Capacity : 3250mAh
Charging Metod : CC/CV 4.20CV ±0.05V
Discharge Voltage : 2.50V (Average Cut Off)
Standard Charging Current 0.3C - 975mA
Rapid Charging Current : 0.5C - 1625mA
Standard Discharge Current : 0.5C - 1625mA
Max . Discharge Current : 1.5C - 4875mA
Operating Temperature : Charge : 0 to 45°C Discharge: -20 to 60°C
Storage Temperature : 1 year : -20~25°C 3 months : -20~45°C
Battery rate : 1.5C
Weight : 45gr.max



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I’m seeing two in parallel, then series?

One of the seriess has oxidised and the ring is the DC pulse.

Correct, find the dud cell, any 18650 will suffice. The important part is exactly match how it’s wired now.

Great to see a “surgeon’s” insights.

As professor said, these are quite normal batteries.
Try to replace them and give us more reports about your fixing.
Not only me like those DIY-works.

We will all “pray” :rofl:
that there is no damage on that little board or others caused by the water.
Such would be hard to check, or better to say : impossible.

All the cells read 2.9v, currently charging them all to 3.6v to see if the battery PCB & camera PCB is ok then I’ll try charging through the usb

Might be the protection on the battery PCB blocking due to under voltage

Hoping nothing has failed but I’ll see in a few hours, slow charging & monitoring in case a cell is starting to fail