Good idea to airbrush the serial number away in photos.
But yes items like this I see sold in twin packs.
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The packing is important Paul! 
This is a perfect packaging!
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Time for some testing then 
Ah the Russian dolls, each protects the last.
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You’re correct, I am wrong. That X00… I thought was the serial number, but we have the same digits there so must be something else.
Found the serial number, it’s on the charger itself in tiny letters, stuck on, need a magnifying glass!
I’m impressed with the electronics in this unit, considering its small size, it’s not getting hot after pushing 18W for some time. I’m nearly done my testing.
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The serial number also seemed excessively long, guess they are expecting to sell plenty.
I’ve taken photos but currently draining my PowerBank and iPad as a charge test 
Haven’t used mine yet, and think I’m missing the fact it hasn’t got an annoying blue LED already 
I finished my testing.
I wasn’t fast, it was raining and windy, must be getting into British summer holiday typical weather, so…
I like it. Hungry for more, better.
I’m seeing all these deal-of-day expiring and I know Anker can make better products so not buying anything I lcan live without til they come. You can squint and see much smaller versions of all current UK chargers. Keep the faith.
You can imagine that 30W charger can be so much smaller now you held the 18W Nano.
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My testing is done:
You own a USB meter?
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In the post.
I’ve been threatening to get one for ages and ordered one this afternoon for delivery tomorrow.
Just a basic USBC to USBC jobbie.
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OK like mine therefore. It’s good for finding dud C-C cables and debugging basic issues. To find bad cables place it at near the charger, then opposite at the device, then do Volts / Amps, and call this resistance R.
Then to calculate power loss, it is I squared x R. e.g. if V at charger = 9V, and V at phone is 8.5V, and current is 2A, then (9-8.5 = 0.5 ) 0.5 / 2 = 0.25 Ohms. Then I x I x R = 2 x 2 x 0.25 = 1W. So at 18W output, you’re losing 5% energy in the cable, and if the device can use 18W, you’re slowing the recharge time by a few % but only if those lost Watts could have been used by the phone.
Then look periodically over time, particularly for portable chargers output and see how (typically) Amps drops then integrate the Watts lost over time, e.g. 2 hours lost 1W then 1 hour lost 0.5W = 2.5Wh lost total from a 37Wh Powercore = 6.8% power loss in cable.
Watts = Volts x Amps.
Now as most modern devices can accept 5V to higher Voltage, they step up/down to match their needs, they just want the Watts (energy per second). What supporting higher Voltages is then for a given Watts then lower the Current. So if you double the Voltage, you half the Amps, so the Power loss (square of current) is then reduced by factor of 4.
That is why longer cables matter less for higher Voltage, for any given Wattage. And this is why the UK electrical grid system runs at high voltage 275,0000 Volts until near your wall where its 230V to only get down to 9V near your phone.
So for this 9V charger, you lose less energy in the cable than a 5V charger, and so it is a good pairing with longer cables. In my case my 6ft C-C cable lost 0.5V. My portable charger I use with a 6 inch or short cables, my wall chargers, significantly don’t care, longer cables fine as what’s a 1W loss… a few minutes charging difference, but for a portable charger it can mean half a phone recharge less over a weekend camping.
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I’ve screen grabbed the info above and i’ll hopefully be able to apply it 
Heres what i ordered, “seems” to be fine, but if you feel otherwise or have a recommendation please let me know!
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Cool. I did a typo , corrected.
That meter you got, better than mine, but be wary of the mAh number, it’s kind of meaningless and highly dangerous to use. W is good to use, just multiply the present W by time spent at that W to get Wh which is the only really important thing.
Watts is only the really important thing in a charger. Watt-hours is the only really important thing in a portable charger, and power loss in cables is only really important if the device can use all the Watts from a charger or if a portable charger and its the difference of a couple more hours of phone use.
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Thanks mate.
I’m looking forward to getting it.
Ill be testing everything in the house out of interest and keen to see some “actual” charging figure’s.
Was also tempted with a USBA version, but i think it much less important and to spend £10-15 on some other gadget.
Out of interest, apart from charging stuff. Are you aware of a quick and safe way to discharge a PowerBank? Like some kind of USB A or C gadget that you can plug in and leave which sucks the juice quickly?
Would be handy in the odd periods when the PowerBank doesn’t get used much.
I like to try and discharge/recharge overy few months and sometimes find it hard to discharge it by charging gadgets alone.
If I were to get serious into testing then I’d need a drain. These are deliberate devices to drain power, produce maximum demand, they have big heatsinks and fans to dissipate the heat energy.
Look like
The good ones you select how they act, e.g. what PD profile they present.
But for now, one way to drain quick is use two Powercore, have an empty one and recharge it from the other. So one smaller Powerbank is empty, recharge it from next size up Powerbank, you lose about 30% energy in that anyway, and work your way up til finally your largest Powercore is recharging your 2nd largest, and at the end all Powercore were drained and recharged.
What I do is just let my largest tablet empty, it sucks up 18W and will empty 10Ah easily recharging itself. So I got by without buying something.
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Thats a good call. As much as a £8 for a powerdraining heatsink/ is tempting. Maybe waiting for a crazy reduction on a 10000mah Slim PD would bring more benefits.
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Haven’t had any myself from mine up until the day before yesterday…maybe they will figure it out eventually @AnkerOfficial ?