Anything can be taken apart and I do mean anything, now whether or not a user can replace or diagnose this type of battery generator is a different story. But unless one willfully takes one apart we will never know. Jerryrigseverything has taken the previous ones apart before and examined what each part did, but that was it and I personally would like to see a more in depth teardown. Now I myself would do it if one was provided to me, but there is no way I could afford one otherwise.
The 757 PowerHouse Mega Media Thread š
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Video is mentioning Ankerās discrepancy on max input solar. They say max 10A so at 18V is max 180W not 300W.
I am guessing what they did was take the open voltage 18V and max current of the solar cells they used and simply multiplied to get 100W panel which would actually give 70W max and 3 of them is 210W not 300W.
A test with a meter over one panel in perfect strong sunshine would verify my theory. I see they didnāt send their panel so if they did you could review that.
Hi professor, good to see you again on the main Anker forum!
According to its user manual, 300W is the max solar input.
The solar port has this label: 11-30V == 10A
There is a 3 to 1 XT60 cable included, I assume it joins three 100W panels in parallel.
I forgot to show those details in this review.
Iām still waiting for the solar panels to arrive.
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Please do a review when the Anker 100W panel arrives. If you can meter it please share. Iām expecting around 70W reality from 100W claim, made up of a panel of 6V cells in parallel, 4 panels in series to make 24V and yes 3 of them in parallel via XT60 to get to around 210W max. A measurement would help with confidence in if they are behaving typically.
If they are making 4 series 6V then partially shading one panel would make that panel not function so output drops a quarter.
If youāre familiar how PV works the actual Voltage is a function of the colour of light, more UV such as noon and/or higher altitude would push it towards 24C, otherwise lower voltage. The current then a function of intensity.
Iām expecting power outages to increase in frequency and duration and so that will drive demand for such technologies.
Yes I will definitely get a good reading from the power output once it arrives.
On a good day I wonāt be surprised it delivers the full 100W output.
If you use the following keyword to search in my channel "Solar Pass-through Charging Tesla Using xxx "
(I donāt wanna post the link here as it leads to a competitor product), you will see 4X100W panels generating a bit more than 400W output.
Hotter day may decrease efficiency as well. It was filmed last Apr 2021 when it was cool.
I now probably have 2500W total solar panels at home. foldable ones and flexible ones.
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I have enough technology to keep phones going only, a 21W (Anker) and 19W (gives 14W and 13W in reality) and around 370Wh of Anker Powercore (3 10Ah, 2 20Ah, 27Ah) all capable of being charged by the panels.
Iām thinking about increasing my capacities, what Iām expecting is most likely are rolling outages, i.e. the grid has insufficient power capacity so thereās a rota of turning power off in areas for a few hours so food doesnāt waste and cooking can be planned and the batteries on the cellular stations can recharge. Iām less expecting long outrages although some parts of UK had 9 days without power and the utility companies shipped portable diesel generators to public places also from where cooked meals were available.
Not had an answer to a DM (for concerns or spammers) since Pei moved on to greener pasturesā¦even the direct method mods were given outside of the community seems to be a dead duckā¦
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After much research, I bought a Newpowa 240w solar panel for my 757. Iām the 101 F Texas heat I pulled 144w on my first day of testing. I was hoping for a bit more- hopefully when it is cooler Iāll get much better. Even at 144w I think it could charge the Anker 757 from near dead to 100% on a good day.
DESIGN FLAW & simple fix: for whatever reason, when you leave your solar panel plugged into your Anker 757 overnight, when the sun slowly comes up the voltage on your panel slowly rises and the Anker 757 will not register the solar input and not turn on the DC input port. For those hooking this up to permanently fixed panels- this is a terrible design! Ankerās āsolutionā to this limitation is to unplug the solar temporarily and then the Anker 757 will recognize the solar input again.
My fix, install this DC timer-
Baomain CN101A 24V DC/AC Digital LCD Power Programmable Timer Time Switch Relay 16A
This item allows you to set on/off times for the solar panel- I turn mine off (which essentially unplugs it) at 7:30pm and turn it on at 8:00am (which plugs it back in. This simple hack eliminates the need to unplug the solar panel each morning.
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Thanks for letting us know of this design flawā¦
Does anyone know when the product will get an update to fix this flaw?
I donāt think Anker would consider this a design flaw. I believe the unit senses large current change to initiate the turning on/off the input charge. They may have done this as a battery saving feature- almost like it enters sleep mode to conserve battery, and needs a jolt to wake it up.
I read a review of someone else with a similar issue, but with AC charging. They had the fridge plugged into their Anker 757 so it would function as a UPS and keep thier food cold/safe during power outages (they made it seem like they had frequent power outagesā¦. Well the power went out and the ran the fridge for 12 hours until it ran out of battery power and turned offā¦ once the power came back on it wouldnāt start charging again unless you pressed a button on the unit (or unplugged it and replugged it in I believe). The DC timer switch hack could be replicated on AC power with an appropriate switch and fix the problem. I have not tested this particular scenario with AC power- I would think once the power turns back on that the unit would receive a strong instant jolt of power causing it to start chargingā¦. So it may be a non-issue. Their issue may be a button needs to be pressed when the battery drains to zero to initiate charging again (which if true I donāt like that feature eitherā¦ but I canāt confirm this as I havenāt tested it).
Thanks for the additional clarification.
They advertise it with a rapid cut-over so it can be a UPS, and yet it doesnāt operate like a UPS which recharges automatically.
I have over the decades helped fix buggy products with analogue timers, which turn power off then on periodically to fix exactly this type of flaw. I have one of those older timers.
I am having to hardware-reset the 757 PowerStation every dayā¦
I bought the 757 powerstation + 3 solar panels package two weeks ago and intended using it for off-grid 3d-printing, running off the solar panels as much as possible and topping up from mains when battery gets low. As long as the solar panels provide 200 watts I can run the 3d printer and the charge level of the 757 PowerStation does not drop.
However it randomly turns off the power on the AC outlet and requires a hardware reset. The 3d printer has variable power requirements up to 260 watts max so is well within the 757 PowerStationās capabilities. Itās failed once every day while connected to the solar panels and has needed a hardware reset each time. Thatās a lot of wasted time and materialā¦
Seems ok so far when 3d printing while the 757 powerstation is connected to mains supply or not connected to a supply at all, but thatās not how Iām using it. Am in daily contact with Anker support who keep saying āwe stand behind our product and we would like to make things rightā but they have not offered any practical support yet.
Are hardware resets commonly needed when the solar panels are connected?
Is there a way of performing diagnostics on the 757 PowerStation that Anker Support should be suggesting?
Regarding Solar Input, I have 2 Renogy 175W 12V panels connected to my Anker 757 and the maximum solar input I have ever achieved was 201 Watts.
Consistently I get between 188W and 198W but 201W was the max I have actually seen.
I donāt normally leave it connected overnight, but I also get the issue where it doesnāt start working again in the morning. The scottish sun canāt be strong enough!
Reminder that the blue light is stronger than the red light, and the atmosphere scatters blue light. So the thicker the atmosphere the less blue light. The further from equator the weaker the sun, so yes Scotland wonāt get as much as further south. You then also have in winter less daylight and itās lower in sky more for obstructions.
One trick to offset this problem is use of mirrors, instead of solar pointing south, point it north and have sets of reflecting surfaces in a convex shape pointing the solar panel.
Look at cheap tricks like painted white panels pointing to your solar panelā¦