On my C1000, version 1.3.2 will leave the DC port on for just under 24 hours while running my ARB fridge. I have to go to the DC drop down tab and scroll down to 23hr and reset it. So…it stays on longer but it still is not “Always On”.
Of all the solar generators on the market, and in my camping closet, the C1000 is the least desirable for camping for me.
I really don’t think it’s designed for us campers that use numerous 12volt appliances.
Ecoflow, Pecron 1500 LFP are in a whole other league, C1000 doesn’t even come close.
Solix C1000 DC plug shuts off automatically
Does anyone know if this 1.3.2 optimized logic for approx. 24 hours before the DC plug shuts off also applies to the Solix F1200 model or is this just for the C1000? Thanks
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I FINALLY spoke with customer support about this in depth. I’m sending my power station back for a quick replacement: I have been told by a tech that the issue is an early model release issue that can’t be fixed with firmware upgrades. It took some pressing for the phone agent to get in touch with the engineers. I just said this heavy doorstop needs to be returned if it can’t keep my DC cooler powered on, which is the priority of these power stations. Sounds like those of us who ordered within the first few weeks or so, got an alpha version that the firmware can’t fix, versus those who had success after firmware update.
I’m fairly sure that I was one of the first orders on 9/26. As a matter of fact, I waited until midnight because Anker had a special release countdown on their website on 9/25. Turned out the countdown was bullshit accident code, and the c1000 wasn’t actually avail for purchase until 9a the following day. Pretty annoying for a guy who falls asleep at 9p, haha. I’d love to know if anyone else was there with me, lol.
I am shipping it only a few hours away to Ontario, California, so hopefully I’ll get the replacement soon and have good news for everyone here. I wasn’t given any guarantee, but it seems legit. Just hate how these forums are left on purgatory when an engineer has a solution.
Anker, if you’re reading, your web site never works, lol. I gave an agent a lot of shit about that bogus countdown, but that was just my first laughing stock issue with Anker. Y’all might wanna jump in these forums and on Reddit take a look around, it’s kind of emabarrassing. Fix your help chat and your help phone number. Maybe consider a different holding song than that aggressive version of “Tuesdays Gone” by Lynyrd Skynyrd 
I received my new C1000, updated the firmware and have tested the DC plug. It’s been on for 2 days now, with the timer set to never.
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Hi.
I’ve been having the same issue with my Anker C1000 which lead me to find this post online and speaking with Anker customer services.
but… I may have just found the issue I was having.
My fridge would always cut out after a couple hours and was getting very frustrating.
For me it seems the issue was with my 12v fridge . It has a setting that cuts the fridge off if the battery voltage gets to low. Incase you are using the cars starting battery
High -11.8v
Mid -11.4v
Low - 10.1v
I had my fridge set on the highest setting and the fridge would not run for long.
I have now set it to the lowest setting and have managed to keep the fridge running for about 15 hours and hopefully this has sorted it.
A low voltage setting on the ARB fridge has been available since they first came out years ago. My fridge has always been set to the lowest setting.
That had nothing to do with the issues on my C1000.
Voltage setting on my Dometic didn’t help anything previously, and that still shouldn’t shut off the DC plug to a power station. Engineer I spoke with said mine was specifically an issue with the first batch release.
My new battery has now been powering my fridge for almost 2 weeks.
The new unit arrived within 3 days from shipping the older one, although I’m in SoCal where their facility is located.
I’ve been having a similar issue with a Makita fridge (European plug) on the 220V plug. After about a month of back and forth with the support (which is excellent, BTW!) , we finally found the culprit:
The 220V sockets have a mechanical plug detection mechanism inside them. It is probably meant to save energy and shut off the inverter when nothing is really plugged in. In my case, the socket itself was slightly pushing the plug out as if it was pressed by a spring inside. It’s likely because the socket is brand new and it will loosen up in time but also because the Makita plug doesn’t have grounding or protection, it’s a bit flimsy.
I thought I’d add my experience here in case others are experiencing similar issues!
Just thought I would share an update on my C1000 and my fridge since changing the settings on the fridge and it continues to work well… the only issue I do come across is if I don’t set the fridge to run at a low enough temperature while the nights are cold and the fridge sits at the required temperature and not using 12vdc power the c1000 will power off the 12v plug but this takes somewhere between 5 and 10 hours of the fridge not pulling any power from the C1000.
It’s not really and issue as it’s cold enough for the fridge to stay cold and come the warmer weather when I do need the fridge to keep stuff cold the fridge will kick in alot more so stopping the C1000 from turning off the 12v plug
Just got mine, shows no firmware update. Have same problem. My fridge runs off this port. Gonna be an issue. Guess I’m going back to the ecoflow 🤷
Just frustrating that setting the unit to never timeout and the car socket to never shut off doesn’t actually mean never 
I have been able to reproduce a couple of issues and it turns out that it has nothing to do with the 12v socket timing out. Though they did confirm that there is some timeout value, greater than 12hours I believe.
I use the c1000 to power my Dometic Cooler in my vehicle when the vehicle is not running. I found that the power to my cooler would shut of randomly, in some cases it would work overnight and in others it would turn off after a very short time.
- If you restart the 12v input while the 12v socket (output) is under load, such as when the coolers compressor is running. It will cause the 12v output socket to turn off. This can occur when you exit the vehicle and then return. Power to the c1000 will be restored when the car starts running again, which in turn will cause the 12v output to trip, IF the 12v output is under load such as when the fridge compressor is running. This is why it seems to randomly shut off.
- Plugging in a device in the 12v socket while the socket is powered on will cause the socket to turn off. Turn the socket back on and it will work as normal.
I have been working with support and have sent them a video showing how to reproduce the issues. The relevant engineering team has look at it and confirmed that that they will be able to resolve it with a software update in 2 weeks.
I will report back with an update once I receive the firmware.
Thanks for info - please follow it when You recive update. I was really on edge of buying c1000 as unit to power small compressor fridge (dometic40l) but those issue put me on hold.
If that problem can be solved by update firmware i’ll but it at start of april, i do like size and spec of this unit. But if it fail to keep fridge running I’ll have to go with bluetti ac180p - it’s bigger in size and capacity, but at last it can run fridges without problem.
Anker has reached out to me me with an updated firmware 1.4.4 which appears to have resolved both of my issues.
I’m having similar problems with my C1000X.
I have #3 5-watt LED lights hooked up to one of the IQ USB Ports, and last night it shut off twice, after maybe 10 minutes or so, and after restarting for the 2nd time, it didn’t cut-off again, any ideas or suggestions?