Does Anyone Make a good Multi DC port for the car

I only have one DC input in my car, I need to get a Multi port in order to be able to plug in my new Anker PP5 and this seat cushion/warmer I got for Christmas. I have been checking Amazon and I have yet to find one that I trust can handle the power. Please and Thanks for your respones!

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What’s the wattage draw from each? PP5? If you mean the Powerport 5 Wireless (an old model) it is 10W input. So your seat warmer is what Watts?

I am assuming both are expecting 5V 2A max so combined is going about 20W. The stock Anker car chargers go to 24W so they’d be likely hitting their limit, not that they will fail, just that they’d be towards their upper designed limit for longer periods. So one way to become safer is go for something rated for more Wattage even though they will not power your devices any higher, e.g.

Is 30W so at regular maximums it would be about 2/3rd max demand.

This

would be 40% of its max draw.

Make sense?

Sounds like you mean a port splitter to plug in 2 different DC jack systems right? If this is true any old splitter will work fine, autozone and most other auto stores have a decent one for like 15 bucks at most. What will happen is the port will distribute power based on need so you will just need to be careful of overload (though u will at most blow the fuse so not a big issue.).

yea I meant the powerport 5 car charger, 24W I believe and thanks

That’s what I am worried about, if just a fuse goes then I’d be lucky, but if by plugging in 1 device to it is already going to push it to its max, then it’s useless. I’m worried about the thing getting hot and melting or burning.

oh hahaah I have both of those already, I mean somthing like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L3DSY5D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ahh ok, so a straight DC splitter is just sticking to DC there is no voltage conversion, they are splitting current over the same 12V. As such the electrical losses are only ones of heat.

DC-DC conversation is less efficient, so to convert say 12DC to 5DC will be less efficient than 12V to 12V and so will heat will be created within the electronics.

If you were to combine both 12V to 5V with high ampage, that inefficiency in relative terms, let’s say 96% effficiency, if you output 2A @ 5V = 10W, you’d cause 0.4W of heat inside the conversion, but the more wattage the more that heat.

As resistance of wires goes up with temperature this is how you cause a melt down, you put both a large delta in voltage in high wattage in a small volume of material, that material grows its temperature, the metal inside becomes more resistance, the inefficiency goes up and more heat which causes less efficiency, causes more heat… and a good make will sense the temperature and turn itself off.

To stop this happening the simplest approach is to physically extend the total volume for the heat to conduct away more so for a given level of Wattage lost in inefficiency as heat, equates to a lower temperature.

So look for something physically big is a good start. And make all your cables thicker to conduct more heat away.

So for example that splitter, the splitter itself won’t cause much heat (DC splitting is 100% efficient you just have losses in wires) and then do DC-DC conversation in each side of the splitter. Choose the highest end Wattage for each DC-DC converter you want to, and look for physical size as a hint for temperature reduction.

Anker will have done a good job of making the 12V DC to 5V DC as efficient as possible, so you just need to think physically of distance, volume, for conducting heat away over the most volume. I’m not sure I can make a recommendation but if you laid out some options I could guess better ones?

That makes sense, and as far as options, I purchased that one already after about an hour of comparing and reading about them. It is winter time, I have all Powerline+ cables, so there is the thickness and the splitter itself is a descent size. I will not be using theU USB inputs on it because one of the things that will be plugged in is my brand new Powerport 5 car charger, the other will be a seat warmer but that won’t be running all the time. I would’ve waited but I had a Gift card balance on that Amazon account and I cancelled that account because I was able to get Prime with a student discount since I am going back to school (it’s incredible the discounts out there for students that most companies try to hide) and it was literally ending on Christmas Day, so before I lost my Prime benfits I went ahead and bought it, worst comes to worst it gets returned and I get refunded. Thanks for your input though

ok a powerport 5 on one side of the splitter and the seat on the other is doing the correct job of spreading the heat out of DC-DC conversion from items rated significantly higher.

The opposite of a DC-DC conversion from a tiny single DC dual-socket.

So as safe as theory predicts. Good luck.

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hahaah Thanks, See I know what I’m doing, most of the time lol. That Splitter is rated to withstand 150W so, in theory, I should be fine.

Thats right around 12 amps total handling. You should be just fine running that at full load if your vehicle battery is in good condition, just have to make sure your 2 plugged in items do not have a max capability over that.

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That only matters if the item connected itself has induction so it can cause a reverse current. Your point is true for items like those with motors. Otherwise items pulling more than can be pushed can have no effect whatsoever because you won’t get the reverse effect when switching off as the magnetic flux decays backwards. None of the electrical items mentioned contain induction, I’m hearing only resistance.

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All that would matter is load. Draw more than the fuse and it pops. That simple.

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And they give you extra just in case on does. It has a cool feature where you can turn one side off when not use it. Thanks guys. Last thing I need while driving someone around is to suddenly have a fire erupt in my car! And I checked my car does not keep the DC input powered when the car is off.

Yea I have the Roav charger that checks your battery’s condition and it’s fine. And that charger is cool. Lol